Ilok, Croatia – The Shortlist
'Embraced by the Danube River and the Fruška Gora hills'
Ilok – Croatia’s easternmost town with a population of under 4,000 – is located on a small hill overlooking the vineyards of Fruška Gora and the Danube River. It has a long and storied history dating from the Neolithic Age, the Roman Empire – when it was named Cuccium – then the Middle Ages, when it came to life and flourished.
While it is quite remote, it is easily accessible by car from Zabreb (208 miles) but is closer to Belgrade, Serbia (77 miles). If coming from Zagreb, your GPS will most likely provide the shortest route, which is into Serbia and back to Croatia, so be prepared for unexpected border crossings like I experienced.
Stay and Eat
Iločki Podrumi Stari Podrum and Principovac
Šetalište O.M.Barbarića 4, 33236 Ilok (The Old Cellar)
Principovac 1, 32236, Ilok (Principovac)
Located in medieval Ilok, Stari Podrum (The Old Cellar) is a one-stop-shop. It includes two options for accommodations – its established lodging (18 rooms) and the newly opened Granarium (12 modern rooms plus event facilities) – a traditional dining restaurant (breakfast, lunch, and dinner), and wine tasting and tours in the cellars dating to 15th and 18th centuries.
Its proximity to Iločki Podrumi’s estate vineyards in Vukovo and Principovac is ideal – and do not miss a visit to the latter. The pastoral Principovac estate and 19th century building – once the home of Italian royals, the Odescalchi family – is only 2.5 miles from the center of Ilok.
The building is surrounded by the winery’s 125-hectare (309-acre) vineyard – the source of its Principovac dry whites (Chardonnay, Graševina, Traminac) and late-harvest wines. The wine bar and restaurant and offers spectacular views of Srijem. There is also an event space for up to 450 guests – the Princeps Ceremony Hall – and six apartments nearby. Indulge in the winery’s rare sparkling Frankovka (Blaufränkisch) during your visit.
Hotel Dunav and Restaurant
Julija Benešića 62, 33236 Ilok
Described as “an eclectic blend of modern and traditional, with aromas of the Danube and the flavors of Syrmia,” the four-star Hotel Dunav and Restaurant – located alongside the Danube River – boasts two apartments, one triple room, four double rooms, eight single rooms, a 120-seat restaurant, and event space for 50 people. The restaurant specializes in local traditional cuisine and wines, like those from the family’s KaSt Winery.
Sip
Iločki Podrumi
Šetalište O.M.Barbarića 4, 33236 Ilok (The Old Cellar)
Principovac 1, 32236, Ilok (Principovac)
Iločki Podrumi is an integral part of the city of Ilok’s history – with its original cellars dating back to 1450 when Nikola Iločki built a wine cellar under his castle. Read more.
Vina Papak
Radoš 51, 32236, Ilok
In 2014 enologist Mladen Papak – previously the director of winemaking at Iločki Podrumi and a former mayor of Ilok – returned to his childhood home to grow and make wines under his family name – Papak. Read more.
KaSt
Stjepana Radića 14, 32236, Ilok
One of Ilok’s most exciting producers is KaSt, the newly opened namesake winery of sister and brother team Katarina (Ka) and Stjepan (St) Kovčalija and consulting Serbian winemaker Mladen Dragojlović. Read more.
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If you have time, stroll around Ilok’s Medieval Old Town, including the fortress and the Sanctuary, Church, and Friary of St. John of Capistrano.