Szentesi Pince
An unforgettable cellar visit and tasting with József Szentesi – rediscoverer of ancient Hungarian wine grapes
In September 2023, I had the opportunity to taste with József Szentesi in his cellar in a suburb of Budapest. He is a rediscoverer of ancient Hungarian varieties that predate the phylloxera plague, an advocate of non-interventionist winemaking, and a recipient of the Hungarian Winemaker of the Winemakers (Borászok Borásza) Award.
As Swabians with roots in Budaörs, his ancestors had been growing grapes and making wine for centuries. The disastrous wine culture of the 1970s and 1980s separated him from the family tradition, but in 1998 he finally returned to his roots.
A hobby turned into his passion. Budaörs – which used to have nearly 500 hectares of vineyards – was consumed by urbanization, so Szentesi bought land in Nadap, Pázmánd, and Sukoró near Lake Velence.
József and his daughter Katalin (Kati) make wine from their 16 hectares of estate vineyards in Nadap, Pázmánd, and Sukoró, which include nearly 30 varieties like Csókaszőlő, Tihanyi Kék, Kék Bajor, Laska, Hajnos Kék and more. For over 10 years, they have been making wine together – and in the last few years his grandson – the third generation – has also been assisting.
Szentesi Pince Laska 2021, Etyek-Buda, Hungary
A ravishing red revival – only a few hundred bottles made!
Following the phylloxera plague, only 10 Laska vines remained. József secured some from the wine research institute in Pécs and brought it back to life, giving it a home in his estate vineyards in Etyek-Buda. This rare red is rich and round – with flavors like blackberry, black cherry, and blackcurrant – plus a delicate dash of peppery spice from resting 14 months in neutral oak barrels. It deserves pairings that honor its renaissance, like grilled steak, lamb, pork, game meats – or for vegans/vegetarians, grilled portobello mushroom.
Szentesi Érintés White, Etyek-Buda, Hungary 2021
This angelic white will surprise and delight
Érintés was brought to life by Kati. With her gentle touch, she blended the native Hungarian variety Zengo with Riesling and Sauvignon Blanc grown on the south-facing slope of Csúcsos-hegy in Nadap on the northern side of Lake Velence. Fermented and aged in stainless steel, textured layers of juicy flavors like zesty citrus and crisp green apple make Érintés a succulent and silky treat. Pair this with salads, sautéed vegetables, grilled or baked white fish, and steamed shellfish.
Szentesi Érintés Red, Etyek-Buda, Hungary 2021
From a challenging vintage in 2014, this remarkable red was born
It was 2014 – a vintage that could have been lost completely – but Kati salvaged what Mother Nature provided to create the Érintés red. While the varieties vary from vintage to vintage, the quality of this estate wine from Nadap Vineyard is unwavering. It's "berry" delicious, with vibrant flavors like blackcurrant, blackberry, raspberry, and strawberry – plus a touch of spice and silky smoothness from a year spent in neutral oak barrels. This miraculous red is a lovely accompaniment to roasted duck, lamb, pork, and game meats.
All wines tasted in September 2023 with József Szentesi at Szentesi Pince.
(Yes, I was Szentesi’s copywriter/copy editor, too!)
