As wine enthusiasts and readers of wine journalism, you are likely familiar with biodynamic agriculture – which has its roots in methodology that Austrian Rudolf Steiner developed in 1924, a century ago. Perhaps you have heard of certification organizations like Demeter and Biodyvin – the former is the only officially recognized certification in the United States.
However, around the world there are other organizations that recognize and certify biodynamics. One of those is respekt-BIODYN, an association of winegrowers in Austria, Germany, Italy, Hungary, and Slovenia founded in 2007. Its inaugural vintage wines debuted at Vienna’s largest wine fair – VieVinum – in 2012. At the time of publication, respekt-BIODYN includes 36 wineries and 1,133 hectares (2,800 acres) of vineyards – 21 wineries in Austria, 11 in Germany, two in Italy and one each in Hungary and Slovenia.
In June 2024 respekt-BIODYN held its annual respekt-Johanni celebration, whose attendees are primarily the wine trade and media. This year’s theme was “Journey Through Time” – and the event was especially festive, marking four milestones – 15 years of respekt-BIODYN certification, 25 years of Weingut Fred Loimer – this year’s host winery located in the town of Langenlois, Austria, and one of the association's founding members – Fred Loimer’s 60th birthday, and 100 years of biodynamics.
The weekend-long celebration included optional pre- and post-festival winery visits, a masterclass entitled "100 Years of Biodynamics - a Look into the Future with respekt-BIODYN" led by biodynamics expert Romana Echensperger MW, a walk-around wine tasting and marketplace, Fred’s birthday party, and a dinner curated by chefs Josef Floh, Roland Huber, and Klemens Schraml – all capped off by the St. John’s bonfire. Hotel accommodations were available for attendees at Loisium Langenlois, Klinglhuber Krems, Korngut, and Mörwald Hotel am Wagram.
For those like this writer who opted to participate in the pre- and post-winery visits were in for a treat – a wine journey through time hosted by Sandra and Johannes Hirsch of Weingut Hirsch, Ulli and Martin Diwald of Bioweingut Diwald (one of the organization’s newest members), and Bernhard Ott of Weingut Bernhard Ott. A couple of German wine producers also made special appearances at the host wineries – Sandra Knoll from Weingut am Stein and Georg Fußer of Weingut Georg Fußer.
Weingut Hirsch
‘With feet on the ground and hands on the vine.’
The visit to Hirsch – located on a 500-year-old farm in the village of Kammern in Kamptal and a respekt-BIODYN founding winery – was this writer’s first Austrian winery and it did not disappoint. Johannes Hirsch led guests through an in-depth retrospective tasting of his Rieslings, which confirmed his philosophy that “the soil makes the wine” – in unison with climatic vintage variation. Hirsch also makes Grüner Veltliner. “These wines reflect the vitality of the region; wines of elegance and composure, full of vigor and spirit.” Lunch by Kitchen Bike Bandits followed the tasting. If you are local to Napa, California, you can find the Hirsch Ried Lamm Grüner Veltliner Kamptal 2020 at Compline Wine Shop.
Weingut am Stein
‘Weingut am Stein is more than just a business. It is our home.’
Special guest Sandra Knoll presented a lineup of Weingut am Stein Silvaners at Hirsch. She and her husband Ludwig describe themselves as “people who enjoy good food and family.” The rounder style is a result of resting on the lees for two years prior to bottling and release. The wines showed softness and purity – a reflection of the careful attention to biodynamics practices. “We trust in the power of nature in everything we do.”
Bioweingut Diwald
‘The place, the people, and the passion for turning grapes into something extraordinary’
Although a new member of respekt-BIODYN, the Diwald family’s 24-hectare (60 acres) of vineyards have been organically farmed since 1976. Second-generation farmer and winemaker Martin Diwald grew up knowing no other way.
He and his wife Ulli took it a step further, now practicing biodynamics since 2023 and creating a biodiverse farm that includes Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, abundant plant and animal life, and a flock of sheep to assist with tending the land. A cellar tasting and tractor ride to the Eisenhut vineyard revealed that “everything is rooted in the ‘collaboration’ of man and nature.”
Weingut Georg Fußer
‘We want to bring the origin into the bottle and therefore focus on the soil’
Organic producers since 2006 and producing their first respekt-BIODYN certified vintage in 2018, Georg Fußer and his wife Tatjana farm 15 hectares (37 acres) of Riesling and Pinot Noir from premium vineyards in Deidesheim, Ruppertsberg and vineyards in Niederkirchen, Germany. An experience at Weingut Bernhard Ott in 2008 turned him on to biodynamic wine growing and winemaking. “For us, biodynamics is first and foremost a way of life.”
Weingut Bernhard Ott
‘Bring the wines not only in terms of taste, but also ecologically, to their highest peak.’
Bernhard Ott has been producing biodynamic wines for over two decades – 95% Grüner Veltliner, along with small quantities of Riesling, Traminer, Müller Thurgau, Silvaner, Roter Veltliner, and Weißburgunder – and is one of respekt-BIODYN’s founding producers.
A cellar tour and tasting with Bernhard began the day and concluded in the vineyard, where guests took in a spectacular view overlooking the Danube Valley and enjoyed one of Bernhard’s delicious barbecues, a wonderful conclusion to an outstanding first visit to Austria. Napa locals can also find the Ott Fass 4 Grüner Veltliner, Wagram 2022 at Compline Wine Shop.
Writer’s Note – Weingut Fred Loimer
A few days prior to the event, Decanter World Wine Awards released its 2024 results and the Weingut Loimer 1 Ötw Ried Steinmassl, Kamptal, Niederösterreich, Austria, 2021 (100% Riesling) was awarded Platinum and a score of 97, so that made Fred Loimer’s birthday a little sweeter – a befitting testament to the level of quality that biodynamic wines can achieve – and another reason to celebrate respekt-BIODYN.
Featured Wineries
Weingut Fred Loimer
Haindorfer Vögerlweg 23
A 3550 Langenlois Austria
https://www.loimer.at/
Weingut Hirsch
Hauptstraße 76
3493 Kammern Austria
https://www.weingut-hirsch.at/en/
Weingut am Stein
Mittlerer Steinbergweg 5
97080 Würzburg Germany
https://www.weingut-am-stein.de/
Bioweingut Diwald
Hauptstrasse 35
3471 Großriedenthal Austria
https://www.weingut-diwald.at/
Weingut Georg Fußer
Weinbergstraße 3
67150 Niederkirchen Germany
https://www.fusserwein.de/
Weingut Bernhard Ott
Neufang 36
3483 Feuersbrunn am Wagram Austria
https://ott.at/