Fekete Pince – My 2023 Wine and Winery of the Year
The Fekete fkt Hárslevelű is a golden elixir, vibrant and layered
In August 2022 I tasted my first wine – a Hárslevelű – from Fekete Pince Somló during my inaugural lunch in Hungary at FELIX Kitchen&Bar in Budapest. It left a lasting impression.
Fekete Pince Somló Hárslevelű 2015 at FELIX Kitchen&Bar in Budapest
Located in Hungary's smallest appellation along the southern slope of the magnificent hill of Somló, the 4.3-hectare vineyard and winery are a true gem. Founded by the 1970s by Béla Fekete – the ‘Grand Old Man of Somló’ – and today led by Gábor Riesz – Fekete is committed to honoring the farming and vinification methods of 'Uncle Béla' while adding new twists to its flagship white wine varieties, Hárslevelű, Furmint, Olaszrizling, and Juhfark.
On June 16, 2023, at a Danch & Granger tasting at Compline Wine Shop in Napa, I discovered another wine from Fekete, the fkt Hárslevelű Gábor 2020 – an innovative rendition of this variety. After 4 hours of skin contact and native yeast fermentation in 1000L Hungarian oak barrels, this Hárslevelű was aged 10 months in 1000L neutral Hungarian oak barrels, 2 months in 20-year-old French oak barrels, then 5 months in tank. This golden elixir is vibrant and layered – ripe golden apple collides with honeyed citrus, lime zest, delicate spice, and distinct Somlói minerality – for a sensational sip of Somló.
When I returned from judging the Winelovers Wine Awards in Budapest in July, I found myself seeking the fkt Hárslevelű time and time again. According to Compline's records, I purchased it on August 12 and September 21. It was my wine of choice to share with friends who hadn't tried a Hungarian wine. I couldn't get enough.
As fate would have it, upon my return to Hungary at the end of September, I unexpectedly found myself descending the steep, sloping vineyards of Somló – where my Hungarian companion and I arrived at Fekete and met Gábor, the creator of this irresistible nectar – and more. It was meant to be.
A tasting with Gábor is not to be missed. His passion for the region's volcanic terroir, 1000-year history, traditional winemaking techniques, and playful experimentation personifies the Somlói spirit.
After I returned home to Napa, I purchased yet another bottle at Compline on October 21. And I still have one at home, so I must have purchased this wine at least four times – maybe more. It’s sold out at Compline after a fantastic run on their by-the-glass menu in the fall – but it's forever etched in my memory, as is my visit.
Thus, I’m thrilled to name the fkt Hárslevelű Gábor 2020 and Fekete Pince Somló as my favorite wine and winery of 2023.
Stay tuned for more about Fekete Pince Somló in 2024 – my return is imminent.