Mirko Niškanović of Vinarija Deurić
‘I still have moments every day where I fall in love with wine’
During my first trip to Serbia in November 2023 for Wine Vision by Open Balkan, I had the great honor of meeting and tasting with Vinarija Deurić’s Director of Winemaking, Mirko Niškanović, both at the trade fair and the winery. Fast forward to May 2024, where we reunited at the London Wine Fair and caught up. The first question I always ask is, “Everyone has a story. What is yours?
Deurić planted its first vineyard in 2009 and today farms 30 hectares on the south slopes of Fruška Gora – a region located on the northern 45th parallel that is surrounded by the Danube and Sava rivers – whose winegrowing tradition dates to the third century under Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius Probus. “The soil is light with a lot of sand, chalk, and limestone,” explained Niškanović. “Because of this and our proximity to a national park, we have a broad diurnal temperature range and light winds that are ideal for grape growing.”
Deurić has been practicing sustainable agriculture since 2012. The winery was built in 2013 and the first commercial harvest was the following year. “Our goal is to produce wines with the finest expression of Fruška Gora’s terroir using modern vineyard and winery techniques,” said Niškanović. Deurić’s plantings include local Morava and Probus, as well as international varieties such as Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer, Sauvignon Blanc, Marselan (a cross between Cabernet Sauvignon and Grenache), Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Pinot Noir.
Niškanović came to Deurić in 2012 after having studied viticulture in Novi Sad. In 2014 Deurić hired French consultant Dominique Delteil as his mentor. “With him I started perfecting my winemaking, but it is a never-ending process, so I am still learning,” he said. “Here at Deurić we grow our grapes without artificial fertilizers or herbicides. I have reduced sulfites to low levels, and I incorporate sur lie aging to add texture.”
Under Delteil’s guidance, Niškanović made his first wine in harvest 2014 – Pinot Noir – from an unusually wet growing season. This grape variety remains one of his favorites to grow and make. “It is very demanding in vineyards, but from it you can make great sparkling, white, rosé – and of course, fantastic red wines. Red Pinot Noir is my favorite wine to drink because of its elegance, fruitiness, and complexity. With food I am a great fan of dry traditional method sparkling wines. I especially enjoy them with cold appetizers.”
I asked Niškanović if he had a ‘wine moment’ (or moments) when he fell in love with wine that made him want to be a winemaker? “I still have moments every day where I fall in love with wine. I love everything about winemaking – growing grapes and working in the cellar. However, the social part of my job is something I enjoy the most. Presenting Fruška Gora and Serbia through our wines – and hearing from others how it is different from anything else – is fantastic.”