Lajvér Incognito 2023
'Kékfrankos goes blonde'
Located in the Lajvér Creek Valley, Lajvér is a state-of-the art winery built into the hills of Hungary’s Szekszárd region.
According to the winery’s website, “The building’s straight lines and angular shapes spectacularly highlight the landscape, while the interlocking stepped contours engage in an exciting dialogue with the hillside terraces.” The cellar is 30 meters (almost 100 feet) underground and makes use of the Earth’s natural gravitational influence and temperature control, creating ideal conditions for winemaking. Lajvér’s 26 hectares (65 acres) of vineyards are also unique – there are 30 terraced plots on four levels, each with their own microclimates. In August 2017, Lajvér opened an event space to receive visitors. Its Wine Bistro can host up to 80 guests.
While Szekszárd is primarily known for Kadarka, Kékfrankos, Bikavér (Bull’s Blood), and Bordeaux-style reds, Lajvér also produces whites, sparkling, and rosé – including Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, rosés of Pinot Noir and Syrah, and Blanc de Blancs sparkling made from Riesling.
In 2023, I had the opportunity to taste a wine from Lajvér, its Incognito 2022, courtesy of U.S. importer Credo Wine Imports. Fast forward to the Hungarian Wine Summit 2024, where I found myself visiting Lajvér – meeting, speaking, and tasting with winemaker Ildikó Heppenheimer – whose scientific and artistic approach to winemaking results in wines like Incognito, an example of her creativity and modernity in winemaking.
Lajvér Incognito 2023
'Kékfrankos goes blonde'
Ildikó crafted this still ‘blanc de noirs’ with 100% Kékfrankos that’s hand-picked early and pressed immediately, yielding in a wine that’s shimmery-gold in color. But don’t let its paleness fool you – Kékfrankos’ red-berry profile – like ripe red cherries, wild raspberries, and juicy strawberries – plus a dash of spice and delicate creaminess – come through. Blind taste this brunette-turned-blonde just for fun, pair with friends and frivolity, and serve alongside variety of foods like salads, veggies, charcuterie, chicken, and seafood.