Barta Öreg Király Dűlő Tokaji Szamorodni 2013
For 2023 Open That Bottle Night (OTBN), Furmint February, and the end of my birthday month – this was my gift to me! – I didn’t open the Barta Öreg Király Dűlő Tokaji Szamorodni 2013, but rather, used my Coravin to sneak a few sips so I can taste it again a few more times.
For those that aren’t familiar with Szamorodni, it’s a Tokaji speciality made from whole bunches of botrytised (noble rot) and healthy grapes.
What makes this wine birthday and OTBN worthy is Károly Barta and his team – vineyard manager János Hajdú and former winemaker Attila Homonna – harvested Furmint from the organically farmed Öreg Király Dűlő (Old King Vineyard) – first mentioned in 1285 and a first-class site from the 1737 Classification – which Barta lovingly brought back to life.
Barta Öreg Király Dűlő Tokaji Szamorodni 2013 is a 20/80 split of healthy and botrytised Furmint, a sweet (édes) wine. The grapes were macerated between 12-16 hours, the wine aged 1.5 years in barrel – and it has been aging in the bottle ever since.
Barta’s succulent Szamorodni is in its sweet spot as it approaches its tenth birthday. While the residual sugar is high, so is the acidity, which results in a perfect marriage of richness and freshness. Imagine drizzling gooey caramel atop dried apricots and honeyed lemon – with a dash of cinnamon for good measure. Slather slightly warm blue cheese and creamy pâté on slices of a freshly baked French baguette, and take a sip. And another. Perhaps add a dab or two of caviar, too. Why not? Decadence never tasted so delicious.
Importer: Danch & Granger Selections
Purchased: Compline Wine Shop Napa ($60 for the 500ml bottle)